Diy Well Drilling

DIY - June 2011

I’m sure most of us have been in the situation where, having located a school of feeding fish, you circle the action trolling your favourite lure – to no avail!

If you’re anything like me, before long the boat is ankle-deep in tried and discarded lures and leaders.

A possible solution to diminishing this ongoing chaos was discovered while salvaging the lead posts and cell links from some discarded automobile batteries. (The lead parts can be used to make your favorite sinkers.)

First of all though, let me stress that battery acid should be treated with caution, so steps need to be taken to prevent splashing yourself or your clothing. Also, the acid and unwanted battery parts should be properly disposed of, ideally at your local battery depot.

After draining the electrolyte, the top cover can be sawn off with a handsaw, exposing the cell sections. Next, a wallboard or jigsaw can be used to cut the links between the cell plates, allowing the internals to be removed.

After washing out the case, you will be left with one very tough container, with six compartments just the right size to hold your trolling lures and their coiled traces. (I also use these cases for storing my rolled-up bottom-fishing rigs and soft-bait packets etc.) In many cases the battery’s original carry handle can be reinstalled for ease of transport.

Also, you can speed clean-up by drilling holes in the bottom, enabling you to rinse out the lures and leaders while still in their respective compartments.

Finally, the larger battery cases are great for accommodating all the other loose items we can’t manage without – and once the boat is catered for, there is always the workshop...

We want your DIY ideas The best Do It Yourself idea selected each month will earn a Salt-Away Combination Pack.

Send your ideas to DIY, NZ Fishing News, Box 12-965, Penrose, Auckland 1642, or email them to grant.dixon@fishnz.co.nz with DIY in the subject line. Images should be at least 1MB sized files to ensure they reproduce well in the magazine. Please include your name, address and a daytime contact number.

DIY well drilling / trench digging for GSHP - EcoRenovator

It seems to me that the #1 obstacle in building a geothermal system is the digging. Even the heat pump itself isn't too difficult as you can simply buy an pre built unit; albeit for a lot more money than one can make their own. There have been some valiant efforts on this front in the heat pump manifesto but most people there that have described their processes in any great depth have all run into various problems with getting down to great depths, such as 100 - 200 '. Let us here discuss the methods of drilling and digging at home without subbing out the work to a well driller or excavation contractor. Looks like this is the place for this so here I go. If you are going to be drilling a well, by far your best choice to power your drilling platform would be a nice gas motor in the 4-8HP range which has its high RPM's geared down to produce high torque. For some people here though, having a nice reversible electric motor can bring with it some nice benefits such as noise level and reversibility which is a boon in attaching and removing drill pipe extensions. Also since this is EcoRenovator, why bring another gas engine into it So after much research there are a few good sources for electric motors with similar power ratings to gas, electric vehicles and treadmills. Motors for vehicles tend to be rated for the 12-24Vdc range as they are going to be run off of lead acid batteries typically, this means that for high power loadings, they are going to require very high current. 1HP is ~=750W so a 1HP motor is probably drawing ~800W from the batteries which at 12V is almost 70A! If we're going to power this off the wall outlet the power supply becomes non-trivial at these kinds of loadings. Treadmill duty motors on the other hand are normally designed to be run using ~130Vdc which makes it very easy to just run AC current out of the wall through some form of rectifier and power the motor directly. On top of that, treadmills and most other exercise equipment have the tendency to be used for a few months or so only to be forgotten and shoved into the corner when that good old American laziness sets in and there is normally a very nice selection in your local "for sale" section. Ok, so been reading up on types of controllers, and It looks like the control board is using some form of TRIAC (TRIode for Alternating Current) or SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) to provide the pulse width modulated DC duty cycle to the motor.

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